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PC ChatThis forum is for all things computer related. Technical questions about hardware, software, upgrades, building your own PC, etc... But as always, no warez. Be sure you read the pinned pre-post topic labled "READ BEFORE YOU POST A QUESTION" before you create a new thread. If this topic does not clear up your problem, by all means proceed with a new thread creation. This topic also explains some of the info you (and those replying) will need to know in order to get a helpful and speedier reply.
Opinion needed ..on buying a computer
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Boulevard  |
Posted: Thursday, May 10 2012, 01:23
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Rat

Group: Awaiting Authorisation
Joined: Apr 21, 2012

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Basically I want to buy a computer and use it to run 1920x1080 24 or 60fps (from my Rebel T3i 600d) smoothly on and be able to edit the videos using premiere pro. Also want to be able to play GTA IV (and V) in the future. Unfortunately my computer right now can't do those things because of the specs. The video will be too choppy and I don't have the right graphics card. Keep in mind I'm unable to upgrade my computer as it's not custom.
COMPAQ-HP Windows 7 Premium 64-bit(6.1, Build 7600) Processor: AMD Athlon II 170u Processor, ~2.0GHz 2048MB RAM 1365MB used, 2216MB available DirectX 11 ATI Radeon 3000 Graphics 1366,768 (32bit)(60Hz)
My plans is buy a custom, but I'm just debating on which one I should. There's a $850 one with the specs:
CWMi5 Intel 3.1GHZ i5-2400 CPU 8GB DDR3 Memory 1 TB Hard Drive BluRay ROM/DVDRW Combo Drive 1 x HDMI, 1 x DVI, 1 X VGA USB 3.0
and the $1300
CWMi7 Intel 3.4GHZ i7-2600 CPU 8GB DDR3 Memory 2 TB Hard Drive 12xBluRay Read/Write ATI Radeon HD5570 1GB 400W Power Supply USB3.0
Those are my options, I'm wondering will I be able to run and edit 1920x1080 videos and be able to play video games on in smoothly? Also keep I'm mind i'm a newb at these things, so i don't really know what DDR3, 1 TB, etc means.
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Fozzy Fozborne  |
Posted: Thursday, May 10 2012, 04:42
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Soldier

Group: Members
Joined: Jul 2, 2004


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An alternative is to start with this: 2012 Paladin E from IBuyPower and have them build it for you. It comes to $1163 with similar main specs to what Stinky posted with some exceptions. Differences include: 2 TB hard drive instead of 1 TB (free upgrade) No SSD included Liquid cooling Blu Ray reader / DVD burner instead of Blu Ray writer Comes with Windows What I would tell you to do is get an SSD later, but that's just me. Also, skip the BD writer unless it's really necessary. BD discs are expensive and slow to write to. Then again, to each his own. Oh, and if you can, wait for Ivy Bridge. It's looking to be a fair upgrade over the current Sandy Bridge chips. @Stinky, the SSD you chose (Crucial M4) is very slow for a modern SSD. We got one of those at work and we were able to get about 165-175 MBps write speed out of it. This is what Crucial advertises and seems good until you realize there are drives like this OCZ Vertex which are advertised at 550MBps for the same price. Oh and don't forget to include a copy of Windows This post has been edited by Fozzy Fozborne on Thursday, May 10 2012, 04:44
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Fozzy Fozborne  |
Posted: Thursday, May 10 2012, 05:26
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Soldier

Group: Members
Joined: Jul 2, 2004


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From TechSpot: "Gaming with a discrete graphics card such as the GeForce GTX 580 saw the Core i7-3770K provide slightly more performance than the i7-2600K, but nothing to write home about. Power consumption was more impressive, taking 11% less power than the i7-2600K while performing on average 17% faster."
17% faster for the same price? Seems like a victory to me.
From MaximumPC: "Yes, it’s hard to have the same enthusiasm we had when the Core i7-2600K first arrived and wiped the floor with all other CPUs, but you shouldn’t discount Ivy Bridge. It’s fast, it’s cheap, and it’s cool. What more could you ask for?"
From various areas I've read it's 7-18% faster in benchmarks but I have yet to see anything where it was worse. The only downside is that it appears Intels 22nm process is not so good at overclocking. If you've got some other info, send it my way.
@Stinky, if you're going to get an SSD why would you get one that's slow? It does make a difference in real world usage. I cannot defend OCZs reputation in reliability but I was just using that as an example of a drive that has about 3x the write speed. That Intel drive would be an excellent option.
This post has been edited by Fozzy Fozborne on Thursday, May 10 2012, 05:33
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Stinky12  |
Posted: Thursday, May 10 2012, 13:52
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Elephant!

Group: Members
Joined: Oct 14, 2010

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| QUOTE (PrometheusX @ Thursday, May 10 2012, 09:23) | @Stinky: That build is imbalanced, so I made an "improved" version of it.
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How imbalanced is it? By 10 degrees or 90 degrees. Anyway, OP sets a max budget of $1200, when I configure a build, I always try to fall below budget (not including shipping). Also I added a Blu-ray as how OP has a DSLR, he may want to burn to a Blu-Ray disc or something (it's also because one of the new build he picked has a Blu-Ray drive) If Blu-Ray drive isn't needed, it can go towards a better GPU and PSU. About IB not as good as SB (worst OC and runs hotter), well that didn't stop people from buying it, as 2 out of 3 IB Core i7 are sold out (newegg). For the temp, a 3rd party cooler will keep the CPU cool within its acceptable limits. Also if anyone wants to run PCIe 3.0, you must get a Ivy Bridge. Getting a PCIe 3.0 graphic card with a SB, will make your graphic card run on PCIe 2.0. This is because SB doesn't support PCIe 3.0 and the PCIe controller is built into the CPU, it's not on the motherboard. http://ark.intel.com/compare/61275,65523Sandy Bridge E supports PCIe 3.0, but that's another platform This post has been edited by Stinky12 on Thursday, May 10 2012, 15:02
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Stinky12  |
Posted: Thursday, May 10 2012, 18:55
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Elephant!

Group: Members
Joined: Oct 14, 2010

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Retail HDD have a 1 year warranty as to 2 years on bare drives. Seagate drop from 3 years to 2, and 5 years to 3. Both WD Blue and Green drop down from 3 years down to 2 years. WD Black, Scorpio Black, Velociraptor, Enterprise (RE) still retain their 5 year warranty.
WD warranty starts from date of manufacture. You need to e-mail them your proof of purchase, then they will update the warranty period starting from the date you bought it. Retail drives can get extended warranty for a fee, don't know if they still do that or raise the price.
This post has been edited by Stinky12 on Thursday, May 10 2012, 19:07
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